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With a fix for the ‘temporary profile’ bug still elusive, Win10 1903 and 1909 customers should check Pause Updates

By now you’ve probably heard about the disappearing-profile bug in this month’s Win10 1903 and 1909 cumulative update. The buggy patch went out on Tuesday, Feb. 11. Reports started rolling in shortly afterward about desktops that were wiped clean, wallpaper replaced, even files that disappeared. I wrote about it on Thursday morning:

Many people are in a tizzy — their desktop icons are gone, they can’t log onto their usual Admin account, and their files most definitely aren’t where they left them.

Since then we’ve seen many hundreds of complaints and dozens of articles about the mayhem. Ends up that the hapless victims had their Windows profiles swapped out, replaced by a temporary profile. The buggy patch moved their cheese and hid it where all but the most advanced Windows boffin would never find it.

Early on, Patch Lady Susan Bradley nailed the cause of the problem:

Loss of profile has historically been a race condition between the boot process and something holding files open. I personally have seen antivirus most often do this but it could be other things like antiransomware protection, group policy settings. Microsoft DOES test their patches, they really do. What they can’t do is test for the myriad of unknown ways that we set up our computers.

(Techy note: A race condition is a timing issue that arises when two or more independent programs stomp on each other. They’re very difficult to diagnose.)

Initial reports pointed the finger at a specific antivirus package as being the one that tangled with the KB 4532693 installer, but then we discovered that not all folks running that AV software were getting bit. Then we had a series of reports about local accounts (users who aren’t signed on with a Microsoft Account) getting the special treatment. Nope, that wasn’t the problem.

Microsoft hasn’t officially acknowledged the bug, as best as I can tell, aside from two posts on the Answers forum. On Feb. 12, Lawrence Abrams at BleepingComputer said that a Microsoft rep told him, “We are aware of the issue and are investigating the situation.” On Feb. 17, almost a week after the bug first appeared, Mayank Parmar at Windows Latest said:

In a conversation with Microsoft’s support team, multiple employees told us that Microsoft is aware of the issue and are actively investigating the situation. “Microsoft is aware of this known issue and our engineers are working diligently to find a solution for it,” a staff stated.

There have been multiple reports of users losing data because of the KB 4532693 patch. I haven’t seen that happen as yet, personally, so remain skeptical. Far more likely is that the data got stuffed into a .BAK or .000 or .003 folder inside the C:Users folder — the place Windows sticks profiles. If a Windows customer runs a Cleaner program while trying to fix the lost profile bug, the backup may well be gone.

Most distressing: Susan Bradley reports on a response to a Microsoft support case, in which a Microsoft technician specifically mentioned Windows Defender as a possible source of conflict:

I discussed the case with my tech lead and confirmed this to be a bug — 25270101 … find the Windows Defender Advanced Threat Protection and Microsoft Defender Antivirus services, right-click each of them, select Properties, and change Startup Type to Disabled, selecting OK after each change. Restart your device in normal mode and attempt to sign in with your original profile.

It isn’t at all clear if Defender might be part of the two-to-tango race condition. 

And, of course, neither the Knowledge Base article nor the official Windows Release Status page says a word. Nine days later and the buggy patch is still being shoveled out the Windows Automatic Update chute.

Not all is doom and gloom.

If you’re using Pause Updates in Win10 1903 or 1909 to block Microsoft’s patches, and your “Resume updates” date is far enough out — today or later — you didn’t get either this buggy patch or the monstrous KB 4524244 UEFI “patch,” which was pulled last week. But if you’re relying on Pause Updates, now would be a very good time to make sure it’s set out to the end of the month or later. Heaven only knows when (if!) Microsoft is going to re-release KB 4532693 and fix the disappearing profile problem.

For most of you, pausing updates until March 9 seems like a very good idea. (If you’re running SQL Server, though, you need to get the February patches installed. Sorry.)

To adjust your Pause Updates setting, first make sure you’re running either Win10 version 1903 or 1909 (type winver down in the Search box and press Enter). If you are, click Start > Settings > Update & Security. You should see something like the screenshot.

defer to 03 09 2020 Woody Leonhard/IDG

If your “Updates will resume on” date is before March 9, click the “Pause updates for 7 more days” link. (March 9 is a lucky number because the next Patch Tuesday is on March 10. Presumably Microsoft will fix this mess prior to that date. Presumably.)

In the past, I haven’t recommended that you extend the “Resume updates” date by pressing the “Pause updates for 7 more days” link because Microsoft has long warned that you can only extend updates after you’ve installed the currently available updates: 

After the pause limit is reached, you’ll need to install the latest updates before you can pause updates again.

I’m delighted — and surprised — to tell you that, at least in my tests, that limitation no longer applies. It appears to me as if you can go back in and pause updates for seven more days at a clip, even if you already have Pause updates set.

That’s remarkably good news.

Questions? Observations? Vituperations? We’re all ears on AskWoody.

Copyright © 2020 IDG Communications, Inc.



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Patch Tuesday: 99 holes, ‘exploited’ IE fix, Win7 mayhem and UEFI ghost

What a month it’s been – and the Patch Tuesday patches have only been out for 24 hours. There are many February patching foibles to report.

Every version of Windows 10, stretching back to the beginning of time (except for the long-neglected version 1511) got patches this month.

Welcome to the new, improved, paid-for Win7 patches

There was no free Windows 7 update this month, even though Microsoft released a Monthly Rollup Preview in January. Anyone concerned about the well-documented “Stretch” black wallpaper bug caused by last month’s Win7 Monthly Rollup apparently can pound sand – or manually download and install the fix. Your choice.

It looks as if Microsoft has repaired the part of the KB 4539602 manual patch that was deleting boot files, although the official explanation  (SHA-2 enablement) still doesn’t make sense to me. 

Those of you who paid for Win7 Extended Security Updates have these patches on offer (Thx, RDRguy.) :

  • 2020-02 Security Monthly Quality Rollup for Windows 7 (KB4537820)
  • 2020-02 Security Only Quality Update for Windows 7 (KB4537813)
  • 2020-02 Cumulative Security Update for Internet Explorer 11 for Windows 7 (KB4537767) 

Two problems. First, you’ll only see those updates if you first install the patch Microsoft released yesterday:

  • 2020-02 Extended Security Updates (ESU) Licensing Preparation Package for Windows 7 (KB4538483)

Second, you won’t be able to see them until you get January Servicing Stack Update installed, KB 4536952. Many folks report that they were never offered the January SSU – remember you have to completely clear out the patch backlog before Windows Update will even show you an SSU. Alternatively, you can download and install it manually. Sound familiar?

Once you have the January Servicing Stack Update installed and the next for-pay patches appear, you should also get

  • 2020-02 Servicing Stack Update for Windows 7 (KB4537829)

Of course, we haven’t had enough time to test any of the patches, so it’s best to wait. Who knows? Maybe Microsoft will have another surprise pre-patch patch waiting.

By the way…, it looks as if Microsoft has backtracked on another part of its Windows 7 end-of-life saber rattling: I’m seeing many reports that Win7 machines are getting the latest Malicious Software Removal Tool, even though MSRT updates were supposed to expire last month.

Another big, bad, horrible sky-is-falling ‘exploited’ IE bug

Let’s hear it for the “you better patch now or else, bucko” contingent. This month, the patching blogosphere is alight with dire warnings about the security hole CVE-2020-0674, yet another IE/JScript “Scripting Engine Memory Corruption Vulnerability.” 

This time, we’re all supposed to get the January patches installed RIGHT NOW because this horrible hole has already been exploited. Yeah, sure. 

We’ve heard that tune before, most recently last month when the Chicken Littles (and the U.S. National Security Agency) said the sky was falling because of the horrendous Crypt32.dll security hole, known as “Chain Of Fools” or “CurveBall.” That one fizzled out, too, in spite of the government-funded hype. I don’t know of any widespread CurveBall attacks – not yet, anyway.

Think you need to fix CVE-2020-0674 right away? Consider. The new, new IE/JScript “exploited” security hole is so threatening and ominous that Microsoft itself held back on releasing the fix. Microsoft first warned us of the security hole on Jan. 17 in Security Advisory ADV200001, which included a manual workaround (disabling JScript). It didn’t release a fix until yesterday. If Microsoft could wait a few weeks to release the patch, my guess is that you can handily wait a few weeks to install the patch.

Oh. If you followed the ADV200001 advice and manually disabled JScript, you have to manually re-enable it before installing this month’s patch. Joke’s on you.

0patch problems

Many of us are hoping that the micro-patching company 0patch will be able to plug the security holes in Win7, without paying for (or hassling with) Microsoft’s Extended Support Updates. As of this writing, 0patch has issued a fix for the “exploited” Internet Explorer JScript bug, but I haven’t yet heard of a fix for all of the other ESU-related patches.

There’s a problem in paradise, though. In some cases, Firefox can crash on start if you have 0patch installed – there’s a conflict between Firefox 73 and the 0patch agent. Mitja Kolsek has a workaround posted on the 0patch blog.

The UEFI mystery of KB 4524244

Microsoft seems to have a specific UEFI manufacturer in its sites. KB 4524244, the “Security update for Windows 10, version 1607, 1703, 1709, 1803, 1809, and 1903: February 11, 2020” is being offered, independently of the usual Cumulative Updates, on all versions of Windows 10. 

By the way, if you think Win10 version 1909 was immune from the KB 4524244 malaise, think again. Microsoft forgot to include 1909 on its master list, but KB 4524244 is included in the 1909 MS Update Catalog listing and in the WSUS listing. (Thx, PKCano.) The KB article – even its title – is clearly wrong.

Here’s what’s odd about that patch, aside from the fact that it isn’t bundled with the cumulative updates. Microsoft is targeting one specific UEFI supplier:

Addresses an issue in which a third-party Unified Extensible Firmware Interface (UEFI) boot manager might expose UEFI-enabled computers to a security vulnerability.

I don’t know which UEFI boot manager has been singled out for this extraordinary treatment, but if you know, I’d sure appreciate a hint on AskWoody.com

The patch isn’t without its hazard. From LordDeath86, on Reddit: “After installing the update for 1909 I got a new pending security update KB 4524244 and it always fails with error 0x800f0922. And again Google and Bing are failing me here because that error code can mean anything from bad VPN software (don’t have any) to a too small system partition (also not the case here) to a bad star constellation that sends cosmic rays into my PC and let the update fail.”

We’re only starting to collect and collate the problems with this month’s patches. If you have a tale to tell – or a question – hit us on AskWoody.com.

Copyright © 2020 IDG Communications, Inc.



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Reports say the manual-install-only ‘Stretch’ bug fix for Win7 and 2008R2 deletes boot file

Remember the manual-download-only patch For Win7/Server 2008 released late last week? You may know it better as KB 4539602.  

Microsoft changed the downloadable installation files yesterday. Microsoft didn’t modify the Knowledge Base article, though, so we have no idea what changed, but that’s par for the course, eh?

Several admins on Reddit chimed in with ybillo, who said:

Check with your clients who have or are running Windows Server 2008. There is a windows update that is deleting boot file for windows. It was released after they had announced end of support for Server 2008 & Windows 7.

Microsoft update KB4539602

Microsoft released the update to fix issues with the Background but its causing more harm than its supposed to do. Yesterday (9th-feb) one of our clients [bank] we had an issue of the same on 3 Avaya servers running windows server 2008.

Kindly treat this as urgent.

There’s a chorus of agreement about the problem in that Reddit thread, but no acknowledgment in the official Knowledge Base article.

Richard Speed at The Register points the finger at Microsoft’s documented prerequisites:

In a nutshell, users must have the 23 September 2019 (or later) SHA-2 update installed as well as the servicing stack update from 12 March 2019 or later, before they unleash the fix. And naturally you’ll need to reboot after these updates. Because, hey, everyone loves rebooting a server, right?

Which is all well and good, but if your machine doesn’t have SHA-2 support, you shouldn’t be able to install the patch (which is signed with SHA-2). That’s been true for several months. 

The Servicing Stack Update is another matter altogether. Perhaps yesterday’s changes to the installation files ensured that the latest SSU was in place before installing the patch. Cart. Horse. You know.

At any rate, Microsoft hasn’t documented any of it, leaving many of us shaking our heads — and our fists — once again.

Join the shakeathon on AskWoody.com.

Copyright © 2020 IDG Communications, Inc.



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Android Won’t Connect to Windows Over ADB? Fix It in 3 Easy Steps

Is ADB not detecting your device? If Android is unable to connect over the Android Debug Bridge (ADB), fixing it only requires three basic procedures.

We’ll show you how to get it working again.

ADB Can’t Find Your Device? Here’s the Fix

Sometimes, Android USB devices won’t connect to a Windows system. Failed ADB connections usually have one root cause: bad Android USB drivers that load in place of the right ones. Windows doesn’t make it easy to remove the wrong drivers, unfortunately.

But before attempting to troubleshoot an ADB connection, you must first enable USB debugging on your phone


What Is USB Debugging Mode on Android? Here’s How to Enable It




What Is USB Debugging Mode on Android? Here’s How to Enable It

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if it’s not on already. When turned on, USB debugging gives you direct access to the file system of an Android device from a desktop computer. Without debugging enabled, it’s only possible to interact with your phone’s media storage, such as the SD card or a specially formatted media directory.

If you’ve already met the requirements, fixing the problem takes about five minutes and three basic steps:

  1. Connect your Android device and PC via USB and remove the ADB drivers. Then disconnect your device.
  2. Run a USB-driver eliminating utility, such as USBDeview, to kill all unnecessary Android drivers.
  3. Install Koush’s Universal ADB Driver.

We’ll go over each step in turn. Here’s the software you need:

Download: Nirsoft USBDeview (Free)
Download: Koush’s Universal ADB Driver (Free)

Step 1: Connect Your Device and Uninstall the Current Driver

First, connect your Android device to your computer via USB. This step allows your device to display in Windows’s Device Manager. Open this by typing Device Manager into the Start menu to search for it.

This image is of the Windows 10 device manager in the Search window

Next, in the Device Manager, remove your currently displayed Android ADB driver. To remove it, right-click on the category that contains your phone—this might be LeMobile Android Device, Portable Devices, or something similar.

Under this, you’ll see the Android Composite ADB Interface driver. Right-click this to bring up the context menu, then select Uninstall.

android device inside of Windows 10 device manager

Make sure to check the box for Delete the driver software for this device.

remove bad usb drivers for adb

Now you can disconnect your Android device from your PC. Doing this prevents the same incompatible driver from loading upon reconnecting the Android device. While technically not required, we recommend doing this because it will show you the driver causing the issue, in case it somehow reloads itself.

Step 2: Remove Bad ADB Drivers

The Nirsoft USBDeview utility comes as a zipped executable. That means you must unzip it and it doesn’t require installation. This utility may show up as malware in a virus scan, but rest assured that it’s safe.

After unzipping the file, open the extracted folder and run the executable utility inside it. USBDeview displays the total number of installed USB drivers on your computer, both connected and disconnected.

Look for the colored status indicator at the far-left of the USBDeview window. There are four colors. Each represents a different status:

  • Green indicates that the device is connected and that it functions properly.
  • Pink means the device can unplug and works properly (although in reality, it may not actually work properly).
  • Red indicates a disabled USB device.
  • Gray means the device is installed, but not connected.

USBDeview elimintes drivers for USB devices in Windows

Now, remove all gray items with the words “Google”, “Linux”, “ADB”, or “Android” in the title. When troubleshooting this issue, we typically remove every item that’s not green.

Removing a device driver means that you’ll need to reinstall drives for that USB device if you want to use it again. Fortunately, most of the time Windows automatically installs USB devices, so it’s not a big deal.

Step 3: Install the Universal Driver

Koush’s Universal ADB Driver works for every Android device, no matter how niche. After installing it, you should be able to assign the right driver to your phone.

Manually Install a USB ADB Driver

To do a manual install, first run the executable package for Koush’s Universal ABD Driver you downloaded earlier, which installs the driver to your computer.

Second, plug your Android device into your PC via USB. The correct USB drivers should load. You can check by going to Device Manager in Windows as discussed earlier. If there is a different driver listed than what you saw in the first step, chances are you have the correct USB driver loaded now.

android device located in windows 10 device manager

In the Device Manager, locate the new ADB/USB driver. This will likely be under your phone’s name in the Portable Devices section, but Android devices can appear in different locations in Device Manager. You may need to check each possible device class (such as Android Phone or Samsung) in the Device Manager before you find yours.

If you can’t find it, sometimes you’ll need to check the notification shade on your Android device for additional steps. This allows you to authorize a specific computer to connect to your device beyond charging purposes.

Once you find it, right-click on your device and choose Update Driver. From the resulting menu, choose Browse my computer for driver software, then Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.

Here, you will see a list of compatible drivers. Choose one of these (starting at the top if fine). If it fails, repeat the process by going down the list to locate another driver that works.

android ADB interface in Windows 10

Install the Universal ABD Driver Instead

If you can’t get the right driver installed using the above method, you will need to perform a manual installation in order for Koush’s driver to work. Thankfully, the Device Manager lets you hand-pick a driver from your computer instead of browsing from a list.

Instead of selecting Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer in the previous step, hit the Browse button and manually find the directory where you installed Koush’s drivers.

The location in File Explorer should be something like this:

C:Program Files (x86)ClockworkModUniversal Adb Drivers

You may need to search for the folder if you don’t see it there. Once you select the right location, hit Next and Windows will install the drivers. From now on, whenever you connect your Android device with ADB enabled, Koush’s drivers will load in place of the ones that failed to work.

Finally, restart your computer and attempt to connect over ADB again. You should have success at this point.

Still Not Able to Connect to ADB?

If you still can’t connect to ADB, your device might have a deeper problem either at the firmware or hardware level. Major hardware issues include the following:

  • A damaged USB port on your computer or smartphone
  • Defective firmware on your smartphone, usually caused by a custom ROM
  • A damaged or defective charging cable

For example, I once owned a Nexus tablet that intermittently disconnected from the computer. Even after replacing the micro-USB port, the tablet continued to malfunction. The cause of disconnection turned out to be a buggy custom ROM. While custom ROMs are great for reviving old hardware, they introduce another layer of complexity that often causes issues.

There are many potential causes for a device that refuses to connect through ADB. Try various cables and ports on your computer to troubleshoot the problem. Our guide to fixing an Android phone that won’t charge


Your Android Phone Won’t Charge? Here Are 7 Fixes to Try




Your Android Phone Won’t Charge? Here Are 7 Fixes to Try

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has some tips that can also help poor connections.

EasyTether Problems: Unable to Connect by ADB

Some people who use both a Mac and Android try to share their internet connection over a USB interface using the EasyTether app. However, we don’t recommend this. The app costs money and free methods exist that are both superior and easier to use. See our guide on how to USB tether with Android


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for better ways.

For example, in newer versions of Android, Google offers native Bluetooth and USB tethering. If your phone has a dual-antenna design, you can even create a hotspot using a Wi-Fi connection.

If EasyTether (or any USB tethering app) fails, the best fix is trying to find the correct driver as outlined above. That means finding the incorrect ADB driver that Windows installed and swapping it out for something that works.

That may require additional troubleshooting steps, so we only recommend these apps for older Android devices that don’t support the latest in tethering technology.

Universally Good ADB Drivers

Now you know what to do when ADB is not working. This method of purging bad Android USB drivers and installing Koush’s drivers works for every Android device we’ve tried it on. It’s a bit ridiculous that Google never released a universal ADB driver for Android devices, despite the issues that many users continue to experience.

Now that you’ve got it set up, check out the best apps that utilize ADB on Android


6 Android ADB Apps for Powerful Features Without Root




6 Android ADB Apps for Powerful Features Without Root

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.



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5 iPhone Problems You Can Fix Using DFU Mode

Your iPhone isn’t impervious to problems. In fact, most of us experience at least a few issues with our iPhones throughout their lifespan. One of the strongest tools at your disposal for fixing these issues is iOS’s Device Firmware Update (DFU) mode.

DFU mode is a special iPhone state you can use to reinstall every line of software and firmware on your device. It’s the deepest possible restore for an iPhone, and is even more effective than putting it in recovery mode.

Here are some iPhone problems you can fix using DFU mode.

1. Unresponsive Devices

You might think you’ve got a bricked iPhone when actually it’s suffering from firmware problems. Among other tasks, the firmware is responsible for telling your iPhone how to respond to the different buttons on your device.

When you press the Sleep/Wake button, for example, the firmware starts booting up iOS. If your iPhone doesn’t power on, it could be because the firmware isn’t responding to that button correctly.

2. Boot Loops and Failed Startups

iPhone in Boot Loop with Apple logo on Screen
Image Credit: vencav/Depositphotos

A boot loop is the term for when your iPhone can’t get past the Apple logo during startup. This happens if there’s a problem with the operating software on your device.

It’s difficult to try other troubleshooting suggestions if you can’t get past the boot screen, but you can still put your iPhone in DFU mode. This lets you reinstall the software, overwriting any errors that caused the boot loop.

3. Firmware Corruptions

A lot of people already know how to use the iPhone’s recovery mode to fix corrupt software


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, but corrupt firmware is another matter entirely. If a popup message says your iPhone firmware is corrupt, your only option is to fix it using DFU mode.

Firmware corruptions affect all manner of components in your iPhone. They can lead to anything from slow performance to bad Wi-Fi connectivity. When you reinstall the firmware via DFU mode, it fixes all kinds of problems like this.

4. Failed Software Updates

Backlit iPhone with Software Update badge
Image Credit: ifeelstock/Depositphotos

There’s a reason your iPhone doesn’t start software updates when the battery is low. If you lose power mid-update, your operating software will end up in limbo. That usually means your iPhone can’t finish updating and can’t use the previous software either.

When you use DFU mode to restore your device, it overwrites the incomplete software with fresh code, updating your iPhone to the latest version of iOS in the process.

5. Hardware-Related Issues

Your iPhone firmware tells the device how to work with different hardware components. As a result, problems that seem as though they need a physical repair can actually be the result of faulty firmware.

Some of these issues include:

  • Erratic battery life
  • Unresponsive buttons
  • A blank display that’s all white or black
  • Unpredictable touchscreen responses

Before You Put Your iPhone in DFU Mode

iPhone creating an iCloud backup
Image Credit: Afotoeu/Depositphotos

If you’re experiencing any major problems with your iPhone, there’s a good chance you can fix them using DFU mode. When you restore your iPhone with this mode, it reinstalls the software and firmware and also erases all your content. Your iPhone should be as good as new by the time it’s finished.

That said, there are a couple of risks associated with DFU mode.

Make a Backup of Your iPhone First

When you restore your iPhone using DFU mode, it erases all the content on your iPhone. You need to ensure you have a recent backup first so you don’t lose any photos, videos, messages, apps, or other personal data.

It’s not possible to back up your iPhone after you put it in DFU mode. See our iPhone backup guide


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for more details on how to do it ahead of time.

Don’t Use DFU Mode on Damaged iPhones

If your iPhone is physically damaged, restoring it with DFU mode can make it totally unusable. It doesn’t matter whether you dropped your iPhone in water


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How to Fix a Water-Damaged iPhone

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, cracked the screen, or broke the headphone port—if your device is damaged, we don’t recommend using DFU mode.

The reason for this is because DFU mode asks your iPhone to reconnect with various hardware components. If that isn’t possible due to damage, it can’t finish restoring the firmware and your iPhone is thus left unusable.

How to Put an iPhone in DFU Mode

iPhone in DFU mode connected to a computer

The process for putting your iPhone into DFU mode depend on which model iPhone you have. You’ll know you got it right if your computer recognizes the device but nothing shows up on the iPhone screen.

To start, use an Apple-certified USB cable to connect your iPhone to a computer. Once you complete the last step, if your iPhone screen stays blank, it is in DFU mode. You can follow the prompts on your computer to restore your device.

However, if you see a computer or iTunes icon on your iPhone screen, that means you put it in recovery mode instead. Reconnect your phone to your computer and repeat the instructions from step one again. It’s common to get the timing wrong when you first try it.

iPhone 8, iPhone X, and Later

  1. Quickly press and release the Volume Up button, followed by the Volume Down button.
  2. Press and hold the Side button.
  3. When the screen goes black, also press and hold the Volume Down button.
  4. Keep holding both buttons for five seconds, then release the Side button but keep holding the Volume Down button.
  5. Walk through the prompts on your computer.

iPhone 7

  1. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Volume Down button.
  2. Keep holding both buttons for eight seconds, then release the Side button but keep holding the Volume Down button.
  3. Keep holding the Volume Down button until your computer recognizes your iPhone.
  4. You can now restore your device using your computer.

iPhone 6S, iPhone SE, and Earlier

  1. Press and hold the Side (or Top) button and the Home button.
  2. Keep holding both buttons for eight seconds, then release the Side (or Top) button while still holding the Home button.
  3. Keep holding the Home button until your computer recognizes the iPhone.
  4. You’re now ready to complete the restoration process.

Get Your iPhone Repaired or Fix It Yourself

After you restore your iPhone using DFU mode, you shouldn’t have any more software or firmware problems. If it didn’t work, restore your device again but don’t recover any data from a backup. Should you do this and still have issues, your iPhone needs a physical repair.

Schedule an appointment with an Apple Authorized Service Provider to find out what part needs replacing. If your iPhone is covered under Apple’s warranty, you may be entitled to a free repair. Otherwise, there are plenty of websites that show you how to repair an iPhone yourself


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.



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